I think a more insightful answer is how often is it acceptable for the reserves to actually be cut into. If this was happening often, then there’s a likelihood of a future disaster. As it is there is 1 isolated case that still ended with a positive outcome. I think it almost adds support for the current reserve levels to be pretty dialed-in.

Officially: never. Unofficially, a minute or two would be cause for concern and the regulators would most likely be showing an interest. The airline may have a higher margin than the official one. This is exceptional, they were within the margin of error on readout and the pilots must have known that. It's one thing to know you have half an hour of fuel give-or-take in the tank it is another to know that give-or-take you are running on fumes.

The answer is 'never' as the reserves are only added for worse-than-worst case scenario, i.e. in this case something went literally unimaginably (as of then) wrong.