GraphQL is not terribly bad to interact with. The schema system and field selection is really powerful that you can pick partial results, and that you can use an object oriented way to represent your domain models. It is pretty neat for cross-team collaboration.

Replacing GraphQL and REST + OpenAPI OTOH I think is much more terrible. You have two API description language (one on the URL path, maybe the Zod schema, another one on the OpenAPI schema). Things like tRPC or magic functions are just using Typescript type system and comment to replace the schema that GraphQL already has.

The only thing I would bitch about GraphQL is it is quite hard to build an ad-hoc GraphQL server from the first principle, while REST is really KISS till the end. And GraphQL typically needs a lot more attention to N+1 problem.