Emdashes and commas aren't interchangeable, and your example there demonstrates one great reason why. The emdash establishes a discontinuity rather than one thing flowing into another, which is why the tomatoes don't merit one but the Ferrari does: you are using the emdash to emphasize the situational irony.

Going back to Anthropic's post:

> They’re the world’s most advanced models for coding and knowledge work---and their research capabilities offer an early glimpse of how AI models will contribute to scientific progress.

The first thing directly implies and flows smoothly into the next---or would, if not for the awkward emdash. There is no discontinuity, no twist or shift in context, no implied question and provided answer, no punchline. It's just distracting.