Even a great UI requires you to take eyes off the road.

Not when the great UI is a button or switch that's where you know it is and does one thing only. Can even argue that a HUD doesn't require eyes off the road at all, but regular dash instruments are readable at a short glance.

Having to aim at controls on a smooth surface, let alone menu diving and things moving around, being hidden or otherwise depending on state is the problem.

Voice control exists.