It's available on AnkiDroid: Main menu -> Manage note types.

And on desktop? When i go to:

    Menu bar -> "Tools" -> "Manage Note Types" -> select a deck -> "Options" (in the side bar)
I only see some latex code for header and footer:

    \documentclass[12pt]{article}
    \special{papersize=3in,5in}
    \usepackage[utf8]{inputenc}
    \usepackage{amssymb,amsmath}
    \pagestyle{empty}
    \setlength{\parindent}{0in}
    \begin{document}
I assume those are header and footer of a card when it is displayed? But this does not include translation direction.

And why is it called "Note Type"? How does this concept relate to "Cards" or "Templates"?

Can you see, why one would have problems finding the correct setting?

EDIT: Now I found it under:

    Menu bar -> "Tools" -> "Manage Note Types" -> select a deck -> "Cards" (in the side bar)
There I would actually expect some list of the cards, not a template editing. It seems rather unintuitive to me. The issues are:

(1) The user has to know where to find that.

(2) The user has to know, that there is no short way to get to editing the attributes of the word shown, but instead, that they need to edit a template.

(3) The user has to know, where they will find the function to edit a template. I claim a normal user will not suspect this option to be hidden under "Note Types". What even is a note? Starting to use Anki, I would look for words like "Card", "Flashcard", "Translation", "Direction", "reverse", "training options", etc., but not "Note Types". It is a weird naming.

(4) A user will have to discover, that they are not supposed to click "Options", but "Cards". But that this brings up the card options, and that that contains the template, instead of the templates being something entirely separate, loosely coupled.

It is hard to include so much functionality in one tool. I understand that. But personally, I would have had to wade through every single menu item, to find this functionality, and this also explains, why in the past I have not been able to find this at all.