>that's from the reporter, but I don't have faith that "transmit traits" is at all accurate

It is pretty accurate, even if we don't understand all details yet. Here's a review article of the current research that's not from a popsci journalist: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-023-37820-2

That does not in the least address my concern. Again, "it certainly isn't true in the way that genes express traits".

You may be confused by the terminology, but that is literally what the word "phenotype" in the linked article means. Just in science-lingo.