I don't think there's any mathematical reason to lay out the elements in memory that way. Sure given no context I would probably use i = row + n col as index, but it doesn't really matter much me.
If I had to pick between a matrix being a row of vectors or a column of covectors, I'd pick the latter. And M[i][j] should be the element in row i column j, which is nonnegotiable.
This was answered in the article.
>> It is often fortunate that the OpenGL matrix array is laid out the way it is because it results in those three elements being consecutive in memory.