It has been my experience that those that complained the loudest about CSS, expected to know it without actually studying or learning it. They already know a "real" language, so why should they have to study a "toy" styling language.
When it comes down to it, making a great looking and maintainable page is just as much work and planning as building a good backend codebase. Neither one just happens.
This problem is compounded by CSS kind of overlaying HTML in a way.
Lots of "real" devs treat HTML with similar "I don't need to really learn this toy markup" kind of attitude. The worst CSS issues I've ever had to deal with were often caused by horrible markup that was impossible to consistently style.
Basic stuff like how to make a good `<form>`. Putting `<label>` elements next to your `<input>` elements, or making sure the `for` and `ID` attributes are set. Hell, even using `<label>` instead of some `<span>` they threw a bunch of random framework classes on.